Newbie Chronicles #1: Surfing

This is my first try to expound or simply share a story on how i did something for the first time. Di na tayo bumabata and time flies really fast so kailangan sagarin ang mga experiences sa buhay. Kailangan lusungin ang mga bagay na kinatatakutan at kung di magustuhan eh di dedmahin.  At least once in your life you did it. Sabi nga one small step is a giant leap of mankind--if that applies.

Surfing.

So takot ako malunod. Apektado ako masyado sa mga pelikulang nawawalan ng hininga ang bida by way of consuming too much liquid. Alam mo yung nasa kwarto siya at napupuno na ng tubig ang paligid at di siya maka-alis? Ay grabe. Ok pa sakin yung kainin ka na lang ng pating eh. Huwag lang yung maubusan ng hininga dahil puro tubig na lang ang nalalagok mo.

Hindi rin ako marunong mag-swimming. So bakit ako nag-surfing? Haha. Kasi nga takot ako sa tubig. At gusto ko maramdaman ang surfer's high a.k.a. being stoked. Whatever that is. I want to know how it feels and i want to achieve it the most natural way i can. you know...

Third attempt ko na ito mag-surfing. Twice in La Union at di ko nagawa dahil andaming kong physical impediments. Buntis ako noong una at nagkaroon ako ng stiff neck nung pangalawa.

Nagkaroon uli ng chance na mag-surfing dahil birthday ng isa kong kaibigan. 30 years old na din siya. Kung kelan talaga kami nag trenta saka kami gumawa ng bagay na pang 22 years old ano? Well, age is just a number.

Libre daw niya kami ng inuman, kainan at surfing sa Baler, Aurora. Mas bet ko ang beach ng Baler as compared sa La Union. Wala pa masyadong tao pero maraming resorts.

 

Long stretch of dark sand na pwede ding pang skimboarding. Just the right amount of waves to lull the board. At pag may bagyo ay umaabot sa barrel level ang mga waves.

 

Surfing 101 to the newbies

Work out na din ang surfing kahit naka-dapa ka lang sa board. Some of the things i remember from that:

1. Keep your body in the middle while your two feet are near the tip of the board.

2. Keep your core firm, especially your feet. (nakaka-ganda ng posture)
3. While waiting for the wave, fold your other feet in a 45 degree angle to prepare yourself to stand up. (this is the part where you gather all your strength and guts)
4. When you stand up, bend your legs to control the board and balance it. Push the board with your feet near the tip if the board is soaring too high upfront.

5. Your two feet should be facing only left or right whichever you are used to and not upfront the board.

6. When you paddle the board going to where you want, keep the stomach firm and body in center so that you and the board are one (naks, may philospophy). Raise your half body up like in a yoga position and paddle with your arms in deep and alternating. (ito ang workout)

7. Always protect your head with your two arms if you fall. And of course, wear a rashguard. It diminishes the sexiness but it will keep you from having your boobs flashed out in the great wide sea and infront of your instructor. The waves don't give a shit about you wearing a bikini. She'll just rip you out.



8. Lastly, feel it. Abandon hope (chos!) Magfeeling cool and sporty. Channel Kate Bosworth in Blue Crush. Ignite the fire and just fucking go for it.

What can i say? I actually enjoyed it. Pag dumadating ang waves bigla kang nagiging daredevil and you tell yourself, i'm gonna do this right raaar! and I was actually surfing, feeling the high, getting stoked and damning the lunod scare. I'm coming back and i'm gonna kill it. Haha.

My hitting 30 friends enjoyed it as well. We had to discuss it after while breaking in big laughs. Laitan, asaran and the works.

I guess there are two kinds of being stoked. The one on the board and the one after it. The safer one while happily walking back and talking non stop about that moment with your friends.

Ikaw kaibigan. What did you do for the first time today?